Growing up in the bustling streets of Metro Manila, I became accustomed to searching for quiet escapes that help keep me grounded and sane as I face the busyness of life. Yet, this exact habit brought me a lot of worries as I spent almost four years living in a less urban region of Japan.
Don’t get me wrong, the countryside of Japan is a wonderful treat in itself especially compared to the never-sleeping cities of Metro Manila. Finding a good cafe close to home is a bit of a challenge here in the nature-filled island of Shikoku. There may be some available cafes around but they get so crowded too fast and don’t fully satisfy the things I look for in a cafe visit.
Still, here I am grateful to be in Matsuyama City, which offers a serene escape into the world of traditional Japanese cafes known as kissaten (喫茶店). As a homebody, I haven’t visited many cafes in the city. But I am sure to have found the ones that I fell in love with. After all, cafes are not just places to sip coffee. For me, they are havens of calmness where I can enjoy the quiet while treating my senses with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee.
In this post, I would love to share the three (3) quiet cafes that I have come to love in Matsuyama City that also promise a peaceful retreat from the ordinary.
Imagine stepping into a space where time slows down. As you walk, the aroma of freshly brewed coffee envelops you in a comforting embrace. This is how the Red Brick House (珈琲舘 赤煉瓦) welcomes you as you witness the cafe’s distinct interior where history meets hospitality.
The Red Brick House is more than just a cafe. It’s a journey into Matsuyama’s heritage and its people. The cozy decor and warm greetings from the owners make it a perfect spot for a reflective afternoon. On top of that, the old yet lively grandma (おばあさん) and grandpa (おじいさん) of the cafe welcome you with an inviting smile and a bit of that bubbly chitchat.
My First Visit
It was afternoon in the city proper, and I was looking for a cool space to escape the heat. I stumbled upon this inconspicuous building. At first, I wasn’t sure whether it was an actual store or not. But then I let myself in and was surprised by the vintage decor and the welcoming interior. It was like being in a museum where I could see the lives of people in the past. After a short while, an old lady greeted me and welcomed me to sit.
The interior felt both homey and fascinating while keeping its tranquil cafe atmosphere. There weren’t many people then, as I came way later in the afternoon. But this didn’t make it uncomfortable. The lady tried her best to help me with the menu because I could barely understand the Japanese characters. As I read through the full Japanese menu, other older locals began arriving. They seemed so comfortable and familiar with the place which brought a smile to my face. They went straight to the big circular table near the counter where the owners made their coffee. Slowly, the happy giggles and pronounced chit-chat filled the entire cafe. It felt just like the old times back home when my old neighbors and even the Titos and Titas in the village enjoyed their siesta, while others played chess. The others prepared snacks and drinks for merienda. I felt like I was home even though the entire space was filled by the voices of people speaking in an unfamiliar language.
Special Features I like
This cafe’s name is a nod to its iconic red brick exterior, a sight that promises warmth and comfort. Inside, the old-world charm is palpable, making it a beloved spot for both young and old. It was a delight to see a space that still works like this. I hope they stay open for a longer time, but this is another beauty in this type of place I visit. Sometimes it made me think of that Netflix show I watched, 絶メシ (Vanishing Cuisine), where the main character ends up visiting restaurants and shops that might be vanishing soon as no one can take over the business. It’s a bittersweet thought whenever I visit the Red Brick House (珈琲舘 赤煉瓦). But, as I frequent them more, I appreciate the little things they added to accommodate people like me; foreign to the country but willing to enjoy its sweet offerings. They now have a separate English menu to help foreign visitors. The owners also try their best to communicate even in broken sentences. They are truly the ones making this place a home for people searching for a quiet escape. Moreover, this place has become truly special for me as I share the experience with my husband and friends.
- Address: 3 Chome-5-2 Okaido, Matsuyama, Ehime 790-0004
- Business Hours
- Daily: 9:30 AM-5:30 PM
One of my go-to places when I get a chance to visit the city. One surprising thing about living in suburban Japan is that many establishments open later than what I was used to in the Philippines. Even Starbucks does not open until around 8 a.m. or 9 a.m. here. This is why I like Biltmore Coffee. It’s this rare gem nestled in the heart of Matsuyama City. This cafe is open as early as 7:30 in the morning. I enjoy the experience of walking along the quiet and still asleep shopping district as I navigate through the small alley to step into the Biltmore Coffee shop.
The cafe has a small yet warm interior that creates a cozy haven for coffee lovers like me. The owners are friendly and would even give you some free pudding (if you get lucky ).
My First Visit
I clearly remember the first time I saw this place, I was stunned yet happy with the discovery. As I traveled to the city proper (still a newcomer in Matsuyama City), I didn’t know that there weren’t any stores open so early in the morning. When I took the train, I was imagining myself going to a cafe to enjoy a hot sip of black coffee. Yet I ended up walking through the seemingly endless shopping street with only drawn-down metal shutters everywhere.
But I knew I needed my coffee and breakfast, so I didn’t give up. When I was near the end of the Gintengai shopping street, I saw a small alleyway. So, I walked through the alley with a hopeful heart, and I wasn’t disappointed. Lo and behold, there was an open cafe. I was the first customer to come in. Yet the owner saw through the nervousness and initiated a conversation in (limited) English. It was such a relief. Also, the owner was kind enough to make some small talk as he prepared my coffee and sandwich behind the counter. It was a warm yet memorable encounter. Shortly after, a few morning regulars started to arrive, and they knew exactly what they wanted. It was a peaceful treat to my initially disastrous morning trip to the city.
Special Features I like
Biltmore Coffee exudes a homely charm that invites you to linger. I also appreciate the fact that the cafe offers a small menu that comforts people like me. With their signature breakfast sets, waffles, and drinks, choosing what to enjoy during your visit is a relaxing experience on its own.
- Business Hours
- Wednesday to Monday: 7:30 AM – 6:00 PM
- Tuesday: Closed
Last but certainly not least is GURI & GURA Cafe, a charming little spot that captures the essence of a quaint cafe culture. I tend to gravitate to distinct yet still familiar experiences. In this cafe visit, the search was even a wonderful treat to my wandering heart.
My First Visit
This cafe has a special spot in my heart. GURI & GURA was the first one I visited when I came to Japan. Having no idea of what establishments are available in the city proper, Google was my savior. With only an hour lunch break during my work orientation, it was a lot smarter to seek the help of technology for easier access to the city’s local restaurants and cafes. One search result led me to GURI & GURA Cafe.
GURI & GURA Cafe is tucked in a small local residential building. Honestly, when I first searched for the cafe, I didn’t notice that the building would have a store in it. The building front seemed like a typical apartment complex, with just a few stores on the ground floor. But, as per the Google instructions, I was in the right building I just needed to walk up. I initially hesitated to go up the condominium but curiosity got the better of me.
Once I got to the fourth floor, I finally saw a sign. GURI & GURA is a hidden cafe perfectly fitted in a small room. It had such a simple signage, but when I entered the room, I was welcomed by the delicious smell of freshly baked bread and a gentle yet profound scent of brewed coffee. With its vibrant decor and intentionally positioned counter seating, this cafe is a testament to the city’s love for coffee and community. Even with the limited space, such a beautiful and warm cafe was created.
Special Features I like
Many might find the cafe too small but living in Japan has opened my eyes to how much people are able to maximize whatever space they have. In this case, the seemingly tiny apartment room has transformed into a relaxing escape for people searching for a quick yet relaxing break from the busyness of city life.
Also, GURI & GURA is more than just a cafe. They are like a bakery as well with their well-made bread and sweet delights. Moreover, the owners are the ones who truly are keeping this space alive. The owners even make takeout orders feel like a great treat to any visitor.
- Address: 5 Chome-3-8 Sanbancho, Matsuyama, Ehime 790-0003
- Business Hours
- Monday to Friday: 11:00 AM – 4:00 PM
- Saturday and Sunday: Closed
With these three cafes, I can enjoy some of the familiar habits I had back home. These quiet cafes offer more than a caffeine fix for someone like me who’s trying her best to fit in a new place. Each of the cafes brings me inspiration and offers a peaceful retreat for me to do better each day.
As I find myself at home in Matsuyama City, I learned more about myself and the things that make me happy. For you, as you travel and explore new places, what do you look for in a good cafe? What makes a cafe special to you? I would love to hear your thoughts.
Yakapin 
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